How to adjust the PSE M2 cam

I fully believe that the M2 cam will go down in history as one of the most iconic cams ever built even up there with the likes of the spiral cam from Hoyt. It’s one of those cams you gotta get used to over time, but once you do you’ll be shooting like a machine.

How to adjust the PSE M2 cam is as follows:

• Draw length
• Let off
• Timing
• Cam lean
• Reference Points

There is lots of stuff to cover with this cam trust me, so lets get into it.

Draw Length

The M2 cam has a wide range of draw length settings. Depending on the axel to axel length bow you have it will vary how much adjustment you can have with the bow. Each draw length setting is determined using a letter. It goes from A to I, going in half inch interments. The adjustability of this cam ( or any PSE cam for that matter is insane ) No matter what draw length you are there will be a setting for you!

Each dominator listed below are the draw length measurements from the cam.

It is important to note that these measurements are accurate when strings and cables are at stock length.

Dominator Duo 40″

Dominator Duo 35″

Let off

For those who don’t know the M2 cam has adjustable let off. Let off is simply the amount of weight that you’re holding while you’re at full draw. The M2 cam ranges from 65%-75% let off in increments of 5%. I’ll give you an example. If I’m shooting my bow at 60 pounds with the 70% let off mod then at full draw I’ll be holding 30% of that 60 pound weight which would be around 18 pounds. So I’ll let you do the maths.

How do I adjust the let off on my bow

So adjust the let off on your bow is really simple, all you’ll need is a torque wrench and you’ll be good to go. You’ll be adjusting both top and bottom cam so it’s important that they both are on the same setting. Your bow probably came from factory as 75%. You’ll notice on the module that there are 3 circles for the mod screw to sink into. I’ll be referring to those from now on as left, middle and right. To put it bluntly the further out your mod is from the cam the lower the let off percentage is.

So when your screw is in the hole on the right your percentage let off is 65% when it’s in the middle it’s 70% and when it’s on the left hole its 75%.

But to change the percentage let off you’ll loosen the torque screw and take it out as well as the module itself. One you have it removed place the mod back in the position you want. There will be an extra piece of material sticking out of the mod to help you align the mod in the correct place. Once it’s in the correct spot thread your screw back in and tighten it down. This screw is only a small one so if you try tighten it down a crazy amount it will break, so we want it to be tight not broken it’s important to know the difference. As I said you’ll need to do this on both top and bottom. If you ever take them both off and you cant remember which goes on top and which goes on bottom there should be a serial number followed by either the letter T or B meaning top or bottom. But even at that because of the extra material sticking out of the mod to help you line it up if you try put the top mod on the bottom cam that extra bit won’t let you. So it’s all totally fool proof.

Personally I have always shot the best with 75% let off. It’s the perfect balance off not too high and not too low. There are pros and cons to everything so lets chat about them.

When shooting with a hight percentage let off the pros are that you’re not holding a bunch of weight at full draw which if you prefer that then all the power to you, However the con of that is when you have such a high percentage let off you don’t get a whole lot of forgiveness out of your bow as the arrow isn’t leaving the bow as quickly as it could be. The running joke is with 90% let off is that you have to push the arrow out of the bow! Typically you’ll only get 90% let off mods on hunting bows where you could be up to 80 pounds in draw weight.

The flip side to that is also the flip side of the pros and cons as well. Shooting a low percentage let off is great for forgiveness as you bow will be aggressive and wanting to spit out arrows as fast as it can however shooting a low percentage let off like 65% doesn’t do wonders for the shoulders. Even I would get quite tired quite quickly if I shot 65% and I’ve been shooting a while.

So settling for the middle ground seems like the right move lots of forgiveness but not too straining on the shoulders. But it’s yours to play around with.

Cam Timing

All PSE cams have this feature and the M2 is no different. On all PSE cams have a marking both front and back of the cam to show if the cam is timed or not.

For those that don’t know cam timing is how you get both of your let off mods to hit at the same time when at full draw. If for some reason your aiming pattern is off and you can’t seem to hold still I would start with checking your timing.

To check your cam timing you will locate where the marker is on your cam in relation to your cable. The marker for the front side of the cam is a small circle indented into the cam. On the back side it is two lines indented into the cam. The aim of the game is to get your cable in between those two lines or in the middle of the circle whichever you find easier to see. You’ll need to do this for both top and bottom cam but both top and bottom cam have the same marking.

Personally I use the circle to time my bows and to make it a little easier I mark the

How do I time my cams?

The age old question… Timing your cams is a bit of a job to get 100% correct but once you do your bow will feel amazing. First you’re going to want to check what side of the dot on your cam is in relation to the cable. If your dot is closer to the limb that means your cam is late, meaning your pulling past the draw length that you set with your cam mod. If it is the opposite side of the cable ( further away from the limb on the other side of the cable ) your cam is early meaning your drawing less than what you set your cam mod to. So how do we fix this?

You must press your bow to access your cables.

Putting twists into and out of the cable can sometimes be confusing you just need to look what way the cables are already twisted. With strings with one colour it might be a little harder to see but it should always be visible. The other side of it is there’s only two options. So if you twist the cable and check again and the dot is further away from the cable then just twist it the opposite way. Everyone forgets sometimes even me!

Cam Lean

You know I used to not be a fan of yoke tuning with cam lean but once I got the hang of it I didn’t go back, and with PSE’s new Precision Bust Tuning system (PBT) it’s even easier than before. This is a new system that’s been introduced with the M2 cam. Before when you got a set of strings you got 5 in total. 1 main string 2 cables and 2 yoke cables. Now they’ve simplified it. Now the cables and the yokes are combined it’s 1 string and 2 cables. But how do we use it to our advantage.

Very simply we can put twists into or out of both sides of the yoke cable to lean the cam slightly so that we can get a better tear through paper. The reason for putting your arrow through paper is that we want to know how our arrows are leaving the bow, and if they are leaving the bow either left or right there is two ways to fix it. There is either using a little bit of cam lean or you can move your rest. Moving your rest is the easier thing to do but your bow will preform much better if you keep your centre shot true.

How do I Adjust my bow for Cam Lean?

Your arrows are either going to be coming out of the bow nock left or nock right, so depending on which one it is you’ll either add or take out twists of your yoke cable.

You will need to press your bow to access the yoke cables

Reference Points

Now this isn’t necessarily something that PSE intended for us to use but if it’s there we might as well. On any of my set ups on my dominator I measure them from one spot. The top of the M on the M2 cam. I have used it countless times. When I’m setting up my nocking point I can measure it using the M which makes it a hell of a lot easier to chop and change stuff and then be able to go back to where you were.

I measure from the top of the bottom nocking point to the very top of the M on the bottom cam when doing my nocking point and I try to be as accurate as I possibly can when measuring. The reason for this is if I get a new string I’ll know where to put my nocking point straight away assuming the strings are the same length. But another use I get out of doing it is I can see visibly if the string has stretched. The numbers don’t lie!

If my bow ever feels off by a little bit I’ll go back and measure it and see is it the same as when I recorded it. If it’s not I’ll know my draw length will be off a little bit, and it would also be safe to assume the cables stretched as well throwing your timing off by a little bit.

It’s not a huge trick but anything that you can do to cross check your set up like that I’d take it.

And that’s it, so so much info to go with just one cam, if your not sold after all that I don’t know what will make you buy.